Table of Contents
Quick Answer
In the U.S., winterize your Black Series travel trailer between September and November (depending on region) using non-toxic RV antifreeze (propylene glycol-based). Follow the drain→bypass→blow/inject→seal→battery maintenance sequence to protect your trailer’s water system from freezing damage in sub-zero conditions.
Why Winterization Matters
When temperatures drop below 32°F (0°C), water inside your trailer’s plumbing system can freeze and expand, causing catastrophic damage to pipes, fittings, water pumps, and holding tanks. Repair costs often exceed $1,000–$3,000 for burst pipes and damaged components.
Regional Climate Variations:
- Northeast/Upper Midwest: Early frosts arrive in late September; winterization should start by early October
- Rocky Mountains: High elevation brings dramatic day-night temperature swings; prepare by mid-October
- Pacific Northwest/Interior West: Moderate climate allows delays until late October
- Mid-Atlantic/Lower Midwest: Target mid-October through early November
- Southern States: Even Texas and Tennessee experience occasional cold snaps requiring preparation
Black Series travel trailers feature freshwater, gray water, and black water systems with multiple vulnerable points: water pump, hot water heater, exterior shower, faucets, toilet, and various fittings. Each requires proper winterization.
Essential Winterization Checklist
Required Materials
- RV Antifreeze: 2–4 gallons of non-toxic propylene glycol (PG) based antifreeze rated to -50°F
- Air Compressor: Adjustable regulator (30–40 PSI maximum)
- Tools: Blow-out plug adapter, bypass kit, Teflon tape, wrenches, screwdrivers
- Sealants: Moisture absorbers, rodent blockers, rubber lubricant
- Safety Equipment: Gloves, safety glasses, drain pan
Task Groups
- Drain all water systems completely
- Bypass hot water heater
- Choose blow-out method, antifreeze method, or combination
- Treat all water outlets and fixtures
- Winterize toilet and exterior shower
- Seal and protect interior spaces
- Maintain battery and propane systems
- Prepare exterior and chassis for storage
Verification Points
- Pink antifreeze visible at all water outlets (if using antifreeze method)
- No water residue when air-blowing method used
- All valves properly closed and marked
- No pressure leaks detected
- Battery disconnected or on float charge
Step-by-Step Winterization Process
Step 1: Preparation and Safety
Disconnect shore power and turn off propane at the tank. Open all faucets (hot and cold) to release system pressure. Consult your Black Series owner’s manual to locate specific drain valves, as protective skid plates on off-road models may obscure access points. Wear gloves when handling chemicals and draining holding tanks.
Step 2: Drain All Systems
Open the low-point drain valves for both hot and cold water lines. These are typically located under the trailer and may require removing protective panels on Black Series models. Drain the freshwater tank completely using its dedicated drain valve. Open the gray and black tank valves to empty waste water. Flush the black tank thoroughly with a tank rinse system, then add holding tank treatment to prevent odors during storage.
Step 3: Bypass the Hot Water Heater
Install or activate the hot water heater bypass valve system. This critical step prevents antifreeze from filling your 6- or 10-gallon hot water tank, saving antifreeze and eliminating the need to flush the heater in spring. Most RV hot water heaters have three-valve bypass kits available. If your Black Series doesn’t have one installed, this is a worthwhile upgrade costing $15–$30.
Step 4: Choose Your Winterization Method
Compressed Air Method: Attach a blow-out plug to the city water inlet. Connect your air compressor and regulate pressure to 30–40 PSI (never exceed 40 PSI to avoid damaging components). Open each faucet individually—hot then cold—until only air comes out with no water mist. Move through interior sinks, shower, toilet, and exterior shower systematically. This method uses no antifreeze but requires thorough attention to ensure all water is expelled.
Antifreeze Method: Pour non-toxic RV antifreeze into the freshwater tank or use a winterization kit that draws directly from antifreeze bottles. Turn on the water pump. Starting with the farthest fixture from the pump, open each faucet (cold then hot) until pink antifreeze flows steadily. Proceed through all faucets, shower head, toilet, and exterior connections. Pour antifreeze directly into drain P-traps.
Combination Strategy: Many experienced RVers blow out the main lines first to remove bulk water, then introduce 1–2 gallons of antifreeze to protect vulnerable areas: P-traps, toilet valve seals, water pump internals, and check valves. This provides redundant protection while minimizing antifreeze usage and spring flush time.
Step 5: Final System Points
Pour a cup of antifreeze into each sink and shower drain to protect P-traps. Flush antifreeze through the toilet until it appears in the bowl, then add an extra cup directly to the bowl. Disconnect and drain any inline water filters—freezing will destroy filter cartridges. Remove the exterior shower head and drain the line. Check for any additional water outlets specific to your Black Series model, such as outdoor kitchen connections.
Step 6: Interior Protection
Close all windows and roof vents but leave interior cabinet doors slightly open for air circulation. Place moisture absorbers or desiccant packs in enclosed spaces. Block any exterior openings where rodents might enter using steel wool or copper mesh. Inspect roof seals and seams, applying sealant if needed—Black Series off-road trailers experience more vibration stress on seals. Remove or secure any items that might shift during winter.
Step 7: Battery and Propane Maintenance
Disconnect the 12V house battery or maintain it on a float charger set to 13.2–13.6V. If equipped with solar panels, verify they’ll provide trickle charging through winter months. For extended storage in cold climates, remove the battery entirely and store indoors. Turn off the propane valve at the tank. Inspect the regulator and hoses for cracks or wear. Spray soapy water on connections to check for leaks before closing up for winter.
Step 8: Exterior and Storage Setup
Check tire pressure and inflate to maximum sidewall rating to prevent flat-spotting. Place blocks under the frame to reduce suspension load if storing for more than three months. Cover the trailer with a breathable RV cover or position under shelter. Ensure adequate ventilation to prevent mildew. Document the position of all valves and switches for spring startup.
Costs and Time Investment
DIY Costs: $15–$60 for antifreeze and small supplies. A one-time investment of $40–$80 for air compressor fittings and bypass kits serves multiple seasons.
Professional Service: RV dealers and service centers charge $120–$250 for winterization, with additional fees for storage preparation, sanitization, or roof inspection.
Time Required: Experienced owners complete winterization in 60–90 minutes. First-timers should allow 2–3 hours to work methodically and verify each step.
Black Series-Specific Considerations
Black Series travel trailers feature rugged off-road construction that affects winterization:
- Access Challenges: Protective skid plates and stone guards may obscure drain valves. Locate these points before starting and keep appropriate wrenches handy.
- Exterior Fixtures: The exterior shower and any outdoor kitchen components are exposed and should be prioritized due to ambient temperature vulnerability.
- Roof Penetrations: Heavy-duty roof racks and mounting systems create additional seal points. Inspect these thoroughly, as off-road vibration can compromise sealant.
- Suspension and Chassis: The independent suspension system should be checked for proper grease levels before winter storage.
After winter storage, perform an additional check of all fasteners and mounting points, as off-road trailers experience more stress on connections.
Common Questions
Can I use only compressed air without antifreeze? Yes, but success depends on thoroughness. Any water remaining in P-traps, the water pump, check valves, or low spots can freeze and cause damage. The combination method provides better protection.
How much antifreeze do I need? Typical travel trailers require 2–4 gallons depending on plumbing complexity. Larger trailers with more fixtures need 3–4 gallons. Buy an extra gallon for insurance.
What happens if I forget to bypass the hot water heater? You’ll fill the entire tank (6–10 gallons) with antifreeze—wasteful but not harmful. The bigger issue is extensive flushing required in spring and temporary water system contamination with propylene glycol taste.
Can I use automotive antifreeze? Absolutely not. Automotive antifreeze contains ethylene glycol, which is toxic. Only use antifreeze specifically labeled “RV Antifreeze” or “Non-Toxic” with propylene glycol as the active ingredient.
Does winterization affect spring camping? Yes. You must reverse the process: flush all antifreeze from lines, sanitize the system with diluted bleach solution, and flush again. This takes 1–2 hours and requires access to water hookups.
Conclusion
Proper winterization protects your Black Series travel trailer investment from thousands of dollars in freeze damage. Whether you choose the compressed air method, antifreeze method, or a combination approach, the key is systematic execution and verification at each step. Regional timing varies from September through November—monitor local forecasts and winterize before the first hard freeze. With basic tools, 2–3 hours of time, and $20–$60 in materials, you’ll achieve reliable winter protection and peace of mind until spring camping season returns.
